A Prayas show and a five member cast seem an oxymoron of sorts. No colourful market place scenes, no live mesmerising bands and no graceful ensemble to hold the story together. What you get here is a widowed Wellingtonian woman in her sixties, struggling to keep her Sindhi speciality restaurant together while her daughters attempt to balance the family dynamics and their relationship with the mother. Seems like a simple storyline; comes with beautiful layers of emotions as we are taken through what it means to be a mother, a refugee, a migrant, someone who has always had to fight to get what is right. Dhaba on Devon Avenue hits a four with every ball and occasionally a six.
At the heart of it all is matriarch Pooja Madhwani, played with perfection by Ayesha Heble. Her desperation at remaining stoic and committed is moving and heart-warming. Her daughters, Sindhu (Namrata Mankame-Shanbhag) and Rita (Narme Deva) provide strong support with powerful performances. Adil (Amit Ohdedar) plays the roguish uncle, belting out characteristics in a comic manner, that Sindhis are well known for. He narrowly escapes being stereotyped, thanks to Ms Shekar’s elegant writing.
The kitchen hand, Li Ming played adorably by Samantha Cheong is linked adeptly throughout the story line. You want her to become a member of the family.
If Pooja is the salt of this show, then Rita is the sweet cinnamon, Sindhu, the undeniable chilli, Adil would be the zesty lemon and Li adds her fine sprinkling of pepper for a complete meal. Do grab a ticket and enjoy a fine dining experience.
– Sudeepta Vyas